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Frequently Asked Questions

As I get specific questions of general interest, I will post a quick response here.

1. What happens if I change my mind after you have received my funds via check or Pay Pal.  While establishing the details of an order, a lot of  time is spent on email and phones with each customer.  If you change your mind and cancel the order, a minimum charge of $25 will be incurred.  If materials have been ordered the cost of the materials plus any applicable shipping fees, labor involved in creating templates, compilation of work orders, research time etc will be deducted from the deposit balance to be refunded.

2. Do you make jackets? No

2. Do you make vests? Yes

3. What kind of alterations do you make?

I can make a wide variety of alterations to chaps. Jackets, vests and pants are a one-on-one situation as they can very from style to style.

4. Can you make jackets larger?

No, making a jacket larger is as complicated as the construction of the jacket.

5. Can you make chaps by having me send you just my measurements?

Yes, I will walk you through the measurements that I need and will send you a diagram to help you out.

6. If I order a pair of custom chaps, how do I know if I will like the color of leather or the texture?

We’ll discuss what you are after first then I will send you samples.

7. I want legging chaps, can you turn my current chaps into legging chaps (the kind that snap over your belt)?

Yes, this is an excellent way out for those who do not like the fit of a regular chap but still want protection and warmth.

8. How can I check out your reputation as a leather smith?

You can visit www.foxcreekleather.com or I can put you in touch with any one of my customers who will vouch for my work.

9. Can you replace linings in jackets or vests or chaps?

No on jackets and vests, yes on chaps.

10. Can you recreate a pair of old chaps?

Yes, this is an excellent way to assure that you get the fit that you are used to.

11. Can you upholster seats for older bikes with metal pans?

No

12. Can you change the way a seat fits me?

Yes and no. This is tricky because I prefer to have you and your bike, in my shop and see you sit on the bike. I can change the way the seat fits you to a certain extent but I am not an seat builder.

13. Can you reproduce a purse, bag or other items?

Yes depending on the item.  You’re welcome to send me the item so that I can take a look at it and give you my opinion. Please include return shipping

14. How soon can I expect to get the custom product that I order?

The estimated time of completion that I quote you can only start AFTER a final production description is agreed one between the two us and any applicable deposit has been received. This time does not start at the time you first email me. Keep in mind that my work load does vary with the time of year. The production agreement will be in the form of a fax or email with your "ok" on it.

15. Will you cash my check as soon as you get it even if production has not started?

No, I let you know that your funds will be held until I start the order.

 

Leather Care

Taking care of your chaps, saddlebags, leather coats and other leather items is essential in order to maintain a life time of good service. Leather does not take as much care as many people may think. It is a porous product which does accept moisture from elements such as rain, humidity, fog and dampness from the outdoors.

Mildew

Storing chaps, jackets and gloves in saddlebags, plastic bags or in trunks is not advised as any moisture from the elements in the leather itself can start the mildew process.  Even if the leather is put away dry, in a humid climate, the mildew process will eventually set in.mildewed-leather

Mildew is easy to detect on dark colored leathers. It will appear somewhat "dusty white", grey or green and depending on how long it has been growing, it will have an odor.

Step One: The best way to start cleaning mildewed leather is to use a warm damp rag. On the suede side use the damp rag and a soft brush or balled up dry terry cloth towel which will help in getting the suede back to the way it should look; soft and somewhat "fluffy".

Step Two: Kill the mold spores in the leather. In a clean container, mix equal parts plain cool water and rubbing alcohol (isopropyl alcohol). Use a clean white cloth dipped in the mixture to wipe down the leather. For shoes, use a cotton swab to reach crevices and difficult to reach trimmed areas. **If you are cleaning a colored leather such as red, blue etc. check for color fastness by trying this mixture on a small unnoticeable corner first.

Step Three: Fiebings Saddlesoap is an excellent product to use for cleaning leather whether it be bugs or mildew; it softens, cleans and conditions. There are lots of products on the market made for cleaning leather and conditioning leather, here are some excellent ones from my buddies at Fox Creek Leather  https://www.foxcreekleather.com/accessories/leather-care/

If you prefer, you can apply a coat of light oil such as vegetable oil, canola oil or olive oil to the top grain side (the shinny side) instead.  It may take a bit of time to soak in so you can use a hairdryer on WARM not hot to heat the leather and encourage the oil to soak in. Use your hands to massage the oil or store bought conditioner cleaner into the leather and work the leather to soften it.

Remember leather is a made up of fibers which, like your muscles can become stiff. The moisture from the damp rage will help soften the fibers and open them up so the oil or conditioner soaks in. You may want to apply more than one coat.

The back side of the leather can also be oiled, however keep in mind that oiling suede may cause oil to come off on your clothing. If the jacket or chaps are lined and the mildew is in the fabric then you can take a damp rag only to the fabric also, do not oil the lining and test a small unnoticeable for alcohol tolerance.

After the leather product is cleaned you will have to air it out to start the removal of the mildew smell. In cases where the mildew was bad, there is no guarantee that the smell will come out.

Unfortunately, mildew is very hard and sometimes impossible to get rid of once it roots in leather. Once in the leather it can begin to grow again; faster. The mold spores can be air born in a closet, taken root in leather saddlebags where chaps or jackets were stored and more. Regular cleaning and a dry storage environment is the only way to keep it from getting started in the first place.

General Cleaning of Leather

Bugs, road grit and wind can take a toll on your leather gear and your leather saddlebags.  Leather can get so dried out that it will become brittle, crack and break, there is no turning back at this point. Leather is a skin that needs "nourishment"; oils and conditioners.

It is easy to maintain your gear through regular cleaning, even if only once a year. Start with a damp cloth as mention above, removing bugs, dust and grit. Next follow Step Three for conditioning.

Remember to store your leather goods in a dry closet with plenty of room so that it can "breath". You will be glad you did!

Leather Colors

The displayed color chart is here only as a  reference when contacting me about your order. Please understand that colors may appear different on your computer monitor than what the actual colors are. I will be more than happy to send you swatch if necessary.

As well, this is by no means all I have to offer. You can also visit my wholesale distributor for a much larger and extensive collection of hides, www.hidehouse.com however, please keep in mind that any leather I purchase is by the hide or half hide and must be in coordination with the size of your order.

Proper Fit For Chaps

Hints for Fitting Chaps:

  1. Chaps can be adjusted from the back (if laced in back) or from the belt area.
  2. The chap zipper should always run down the same seam as your pants.
  3. Chaps too big in the waist with the belt pulled in too much will cause the zipper to come forward.  The reverse will happen if the belt must be let out all the way. The belt should buckle in the middle not at either end.
  4. People with short waists may need to have the chap altered to fit them correctly as the chap my be riding too high on the waist.
  5. The back of the chaps should not need an extender unless you are big in the waist and very small in the legs. In the case where a girl has small waist and big thighs she needs to get the chaps to fit her in the thighs first (the hardest place to fit) then the waist second. The waist be adjusted by over lapping the adjustment area in the center back or by having the waist band customized.
  6. Chaps should not be real tight on the thigh because it can cause you to lose circulation while you are riding. It will also make them uncomfortable if you "layer  up".  You should be able to slide your hand under the top of the chap while sitting down.
  7. The length of the chap is up to the person wearing them however it is advisable that you sit down and extend your leg. This will assure that the chap will not ride up while riding.  If a chap drags on the ground behind the boot, it is not that the chap is necessarily too long but that the leg is too wide.  At this point an alteration can correct the problem.
  8. People with large stomachs, may have a problem with getting the chaps or with bending to zip them up. This can be eliminated by the use of leggings chaps instead of traditional chaps.

Measuring for Chaps:

All measurements must be taken while wearing riding clothes and boots.
All measurements must be taken be taken snuggly but not tight. Allow one inch for expansion.

  • Around the waist or hip, depending upon where you want the chaps to ride.
  • Length from top of chap belt to 3” below crotch.
  • Length from top of chap to floor with boots on.
  • Thigh measurement where chap will ride which is again 3” from crotch.
  • Knee circumference measurement.
  • Calf circumference measurement (with boots on if you wear calf high boots).
  • Ankle circumference measurement (with boots on).
Warranty & Returns

Ace High Leathers is committed to excellence in craftsmanship and service. If for any reason you are not fully satisfied with the product please contact me immediately. The item must be returned within 30 days of receipt.

All items must be returned in like new unused condition. All refunds will occur after the product has been received and inspected. Customer to pay the cost of return shipping via USPS Priority Mail with tracking number.

All products are covered by a one year limited warranty to be free from production defects. This warranty does not cover any product that has not been properly cared for as instructed by Ace High Leathers. Not "properly cared for" means any product that has been left for an unlimited amount of time in the elements such as sun or rain and has not been treated as recommended using various leather care products.

Any order found to have been altered or "corrected" in any way before one year from the date of delivery by a business or person other than someone recommended by Ace High Leathers voids the one year guarantee which accompanies custom made products. This also voids free clean and conditioning of products as well.

Any order found to be short on quantity must be inspected by the customer and reported to Ace High Leathers within 7 days of receipt.

International customers must pay all shipping fees on international shipments, both returns, and exchanges. Ace High Leathers is not responsible for any brokerage, duties, clearance fees, added value taxes, and/or other fees incurred. Note to international customers only: do not ship returns to us via UPS.

In the event of cancellation, custom order deposits will be forfeited if production on that item has begun and/or if materials for that particular project has been purchased by Ace High Leathers.

Template deposits are non-refundable.

Closeout or Sale Items are final.

Contact me for further questions